"All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware" -Martin Buber

Monday, January 6, 2014

Gili Air: Storm

Our next stopover point for the trip was Gili Air. You’ll be surprised to find out, based on the title, that the skies were perfectly blue the whole time I was there. I was looking the most forward to this portion of the trip. The main reason being that the island is completely walk able in 90 minutes and there are no motorized vehicles allowed. I was excited to do some self-exploration here. Are you kidding me? Somewhere I could walk around and not get honked at/almost run over by cars? I was looking very forward to finding some nice places to read and write.
dirt paths
After arriving at our hostel I left pretty quickly, taking my bike (free rental with the bungalow rental) and taking random turns at every dirt path I met. I had no idea where I was going, but what did I care? I had nowhere to be, and no one to answer to. I came across many a wild, but tame animal, lots of Indonesians doing farm work/cooking, and a few men carrying machetes who said “Siang!” (good afternoon) as I passed. Eventually I came to a beach on the other side of the island and decided that this would be the perfect place to have a beer as my lunch for the day (I had previously stopped for gelato.) I asked for a large Bintang at a random bar, because this one had some nice shaded bungalows overlooking the beach where I could sit and read. They said the large Bintang wasn’t cold, so I began looking in their fridge and what should I see but Storm beer!


So a little side note to explain my excitement: Being me, when I first began researching Indonesia I researched the beer. No surprise there. I found this beer rating site and on it the Storm Iron Stout had the highest rating of all Indonesian made beers. It had even won international awards. So, of course I’ve been looking for it since I arrived. No success in Jakarta, but I did manage to find the Storm IPA which was delicious. The problem is that the bar I found it at only had 2 left, and I drank them both. I’ve been asking all over since then, but everywhere seems to be out. I did some research online and found a forum that said that the company has recently gone out of business. I was very depressed. A girl can really only drink so much pilsner before wanting to swear off beer completely.

Storm IPA!

Since I saw it in the fridge at this random bar, on this random beach, on this random island, I decided to try the Stout. Being a Stout fan and all, I have to say I did not enjoy it. Mostly because the beach is the complete wrong setting for such a heavy beer. Lucky for me, I had seen several other kinds in the fridge so I asked for an IPA. They did not have it. I was starting to lose hope. The white guy behind me said he’d have it later that night. I mentioned I was a huge beer fan, particularly of IPA and he responded by saying I must be a very smart girl and introducing himself as the co-owner of the Storm Brewing company. He told me about the 5 beers they brewed, and I decided to try a bronze ale. He of course yelled at the poor Indonesian bartender for not serving it in a glass the way it was meant to be served.

We had a nice chat about the beers, how they are brewed (all natural) and about the law suit they are currently going through. I asked if the company was shutting down and he informed that it is not likely. Mostly he said I would see Storm beer disappear for 3-6 months, and then hopefully it would re-emerge. Can you say relief. I might be able to go to a bar and drink a decent beer in a few months! Robert ended up finding me and low and behold, the guy is also a DJ, and him and Robert had tons to talk about. After trying all of the beer I’d have to say that the Bronze is my favorite. What the Storm IPA lacks in flavor is made up for in this hoppy red ale. Yummy!

Enjoying my beer in the water

After a few more beers I realized I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast and it was now 5:00pm, so Robert and I made the best of our slightly goofy bike ride back to the bungalow to pick up Scott for dinner. We ended up eating at a very chill place and all getting delicious prawns, rice, and veggies. It was a satisfying meal but I was still starving since I hadn’t really eaten all day. I opted to head back to the beach joint for 2 cold IPAs. We rode the bikes home in the pitch black under the stars. I almost wiped out a few times, mostly because I was slightly intoxicated, but also because I kept wanting to look up at the stars.

sunset

The following morning I woke up with a migraine, after listing to pounding trance music from a distance until late into the night, and not being able to sleep. I pounded water, drank a coffee, put on my suit, and headed out to find breakfast. I ate in a bungalow along the shore and had a veggie omelet and orange juice for about $4. We are talking fresh squeezed orange juice here, by the way. I managed to bike almost the entire perimeter of the island, stopping to take pictures, and to walk it through the super sandy spots, in about an hour. I sat at a bar and drank a fresh bloody mary (they cut the tomatoes in front of me, and blended them to make juice) and read. Then, I needed more water, so I went back to the hostel and skyped with my mom, had a bit of me time to write, and then went to meet Scott and Robert for lunch.

should have named this bike....

I had a delicious veggie wrap and salad and pineapple juice for $5. Where is the food culture in Jakarta? I need more than Nasi Goreng world!

After watching the sea for a few hours while Scott and Robert played chess I decided to head home to do some serious writing. I was really needing this me time after 12 days, and I was desperate for time to write. Perfect afternoon in the garden. Just me, my thoughts, some music, coffee, and the occasional interruption by the world’s cutest person ever sending me text messages.


Then I decided to head back out to do a little more exploring, grab an ice cream and watch the sunset, however this was quickly interrupted by a teeny tiny bit of rain. I biked back to the hostel and opted to lay in the hammock and read until it was time for dinner. We took the back roads back to a restaurant and sat and played cards while we sipped on drinks and ate food. Eventually I was tired enough to leave the gang and head home. After my scary bike ride in the dark (I was not slightly intoxicated and thus largely aware of the darkness that encompassed me) I got through the gate only to realize I had no key. Lucky for me the owner was doing some late night gardening work and ran and got the spare while I sat and looked at stars. Once inside I almost immediately passed out.
Breakfast!
The following morning I woke up, did some reading, ate breakfast with Scott and Robert and got ready to journey on, to legendary Gili Trawangan.  

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